Arrastre de pub

Tolosa Caliente (also known as "Toro")

I've been put off eating here for some time now after an encounter with the owner. But since there isn't much in the way of Spanish cooking in town (Alkimia has closed down, due to bad management rather than bad cooking I suspect) I thought I'd put my head in and try a few tapas prior to a pub crawl. How bad can it be?

Not bad actually. We're not talking La Cuchara de Santelmo here, but they seem to make do pretty well with what is available in Dakar. Steering away from the hams - they're only going to disappoint - The Juicer and I share 5 plates between us as we wait for the rest of our cuadrilla to arrive. Our tortilla is dense and studded with proper bacon, but a touch overcooked considering it was fresh out of the kitchen. Mini-beef brochettes are respectably rare, while classic brochettes of monkfish and chorizo are almost perfect (Let down by the quality of local chorizo). Pinchos of bread and anchovies "Marseille" are a bit puzzling, with the anchovies not really packing much of a punch, while squid is just a touch overcooked, but heavily over heated with chillies. On-the-house aceitunas are marinated in parsley and garlic, and are some of the best in town.

A mixed bag then, but that's the fun with tapas. Anchovies not up to scratch? Doesn't matter - try some of the brochettes. The bar itself is pretty inviting as well, with smart service, wines by the half bottle, and a good selection of single malts, Tolosa Caliente makes a great prelude to a nine hour drinking session (for example).

Tolosa Caliente
Route de l'aeroport
Tel: 77 435 65 16
Open 12pm to 3pm and 7.30pm until midnight.

... Another hiatus...

Terrou-Bi - Terrace Restaurant

This year's Repertoire des Restos features a whole page handed over to Chef Thierry Justamante of the Terrou Bi. Here he gives away the secret of his recipe for 'Filet de Thiof a la Marinade de poivre et gingembre, pomme de terre ecrasee'. (Grilled fish marinated in ginger with mashed spuds). Unfortunately for Thierry, the dish in the accompanying photograph looks like it's been assembled by a four year old, drunk on his Grandmother's sherry, using items found on the floor or fished from a burning bin. Thierry must be gutted, because the real thing actually looks rather nice, and according to my boozy-lunch companion (on her final outing with Dakar Restaurant Reviews) tastes fresh and zesty.

That doesn't stop her stealing my chips though. They are also good. My honey and citrus brochettes are a touch workmanlike in execution, but no complaints. They also do a honey and goat's cheese pizza, which comes with positive reports. In fact, the whole menu looks like it might have potential, were it not cursed with being a hotel restaurant with accompanying upmarket hotel prices. While the rest of town is banging out cheap lunch deals, this place is banking on the business trade and pitching their three-course lunchtime specials at 25,000 FCfa+. That's before you start piling on the booze. I found the service to be a little obsequious too, but maybe I'm too used to getting ignored in Les Ambassades these days.

A good treat though, and one of the few upmarket beachside places in town where it is worth whiling away the afternoon.

La Terrasse Du Terrou-Bi
Bd Martin Luther King
Tel: 33 839 90 30 Ooen 7 days a week until 11pm

Restaurant News
Tapas at N'gor
Having previously got all excited about this place the shine has worn off somewhat. It's back to the usual trick of chasing waiters around and the kind of casual sloppiness that downstairs is reknowned for. Couple with that with the fact that the chef has just got a new deep fat fryer and is not afraid to use it.

Airport road:
Has anyone been to that monstrosity that has just opened up next to I-cone? Opium or something? I can only assume it's pitched at footballers, drug dealers and French squaddies, so I'm looking for some feedback before I take the risk.

Cherry Mania

Le N'gor Tapas.
We've been here before on Dakar Restaurant Reviews. Something about terrible service, but a lovely place for sundowners. Locals refer to it as "Pied dans l'eau", or should that be "Les pieds dans l'eau'? Whatever.

Anyhow, it's got a nice upstairs bit now, doing tapas. It's an inventive Senegal-ised version of tapas, so don't expect elvers on toast, but do expect tasty bites. Each selection of tapas is named after one of the tribes of Senegal (Peul, Serere and so on) and is enough to amuse a group of, say, four people over cold beers. Service is perky.

The upstairs terrace is bright and breezy too, and just far enough from l'eau to be out of earshot of horrid French children tormenting pelicans.

Le N'gor Tapas
Route de la Corniche des Almadies
Tel: 775 04 30 06

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N'ice Cream
Mentioned in my last post, N'Ice Cream (whoever came up with that name is probably still recovering) is an excellent spot for a massive portion of ice cream. N'ice Cream is on my mind right now as I've just eaten some of their product at the Ecole Gastronomique. According to the flyer, pressed into my hand while I was weak from three courses and wine, they have more than 40 flavours every day (e.g. Cherry Mania!) and do deliveries.

N'ice Cream
97, Avenue A. Peytavin
Tel: 33 823 35 45
www.nicecream.sn (currently not working)

Sea Views

As you'd expect, there are many restaurant in Dakar with sea views. Here are a handful for breezy Sunday afternoons.

Le Dionevar, Pointe des Almadies
Perhaps cheese and onion crisps are considered to be a sophisticated amuse in France. I somehow doubt it. This place is trying hard to be an upmarket French-style joint, but is outclassed by the cheap as chips seafood offerings across the car park.

Recommended:

• Service was fine
• Nice christmas decorations

Avoid:

• The oysters. You know when something doesn't smell quite right... but its too late because you've just knocked it back...
• Cheese and onion crisps on a dining table. *Shakes head*.

Le N'gor, Almadies, by the sea
Another breezy beachside venue which is very popular on Sundays. The restaurant has bags of character, but service is slow, and the food is ony worthwhile if you've spent the afternoon getting drunk here.

Recommended:

• Meet of with some friends and soak up the seaside vibes.

Avoid:

• Drinking all of your wine while waiting for service.

Hotel Sokhamon, Bd Roosevelt x Av Nelson Mandela (website)
A boutique hotel with an unusual cave-like restaurant cut into the cliffs. The awkwardly sloping decking at the edge of the cliff is a fine place to spend an evening supping a drink and watching the sun set / planes fly over. The upmarket restaurant tries hard, with some poncey experimentation that doesn't really work out.

Recommended:

• For drinks on the deck before moving on elsewhere
• For formal dining if you stay away from the wackier items

Avoid:

• It's pricey
• Service is a bit fussy, and slow

Lagon I, Rue de la Petite Corniche
Some sort of ridiculous nautical / sport fishing themed restaurant. Does that float your boat? Then you are as vulgar as this restaurant. Overpriced grub for French tourists who have been allowed out of the Club Med prison walls for a couple of hours. On the plus side I saw a very nice dog in the restaurant, sitting calmly at the feet of an elderly lady.

Recommended:

• You actually laugh for the first few minutes, particularly at the faux crocodile pit. Then you remember that you have to eat there, and consider throwing yourself in.

Avoid:

• Just avoid

Le Relais Sportif, Route Corniche Ouest
If you enjoy eating in the dark, come here in the evening. If you'd prefer to see what you are eating come in the day. Actually, don't bother eating. If you can catch the attention of a waiter (perhaps try setting fire to something), have some beers and enjoy the breeze off the sea.

Recommended:

• For afternoon beers.

Avoid:

• Coming after dark
• Eating

More sea view tips from Almadies coming soon.

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Other Restaurant News:
The Christmas decorations are up at Les Ambassades bakery in Point E. I shall be keeping my eye out for some of the more vulgar festive decor around town. Any tip-offs most appreciated.

Many thanks to L'Institut Francais (the CCF) for letting us use their grounds for our informal Petanque championship a couple of weeks ago. The staff there were superb and did us a great favour.

Look out for a detailed review of 'Le Lodge' on Experimental Jifflings at the end of next week.

Bon appetit